Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, thousands of training plans, and more. La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe And, as a counterpoint to the older model, the shoes have held that shape and support even after days of sweaty summer testing; they have not gone soft, marking a major improvement in last-coherence and longevity. Read more about us. One of La Sportivas newer innovations, the Skwama is a performance climbing slipper, comparable to the Drago above in terms of its highly aggressive and sensitive build. La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoes - Men's | REI Co-op La Sportiva has their Solution Comp (a more supple version of the Solution below), and theyve also added the Theory, an even softer shoe with No-Edge technology. Best Rock Climbing Shoes of 2023 | Switchback Travel Even among the beginner shoes on the market, it isnt the best option for smearing or edging. And because its a shoe that youll likely want to remove between pitches (even on a multipitch), the convenient two-strap Velcro closure makes a lot of sense.See the Men's La Sportiva Otaki See the Women's La Sportiva Otaki. Laces Theyre characterized by a solid edging platform, tight heel cup with a slingshot-style rand, stiff midsole, and laces or a Velcro closure. The wide toe box keeps comfort high, and you can play with size depending on your goals: a relatively loose fit is great for all-day wear on multi-pitch routes (and better on slabs and cracks), while we prefer a tighter feel for redpoint burns at the sport crag. Anthony gave the Katana Lace 10/10 here. The laces, made from recycled plastic, have been durable as well. Whether youre looking for an aggressively downturned shoe for hooking your way up boulder problems, a precise edging model for long limestone sport routes, or a comfortable kick for all-day granite ascents, weve got you covered. Otaki has a high volume whereas Kataki has a low volume. This is a high-end, niche shoe for thin face climbing, technical slabs with micro holds (not smeary slabs), cracks up to hands or fists, and all-day trad/multi-pitch. Oh yeah, headlamp. With a huge pad of sticky toe rubber, an aggressive downturned shape with lots of sensitivity, and a Velcro strap to keep the shoe from sliding off on heel hooks, this shoe screams steep climbing. As low as 121.00. Personally, I dont think so.. a bouldering all-rounder as opposed to a trad/sport all-rounder). Its snug heel cup is great for those with low-volume feet, and the wide toe box adds comfort and versatility for a range of foot shapes. And it certainly doesnt hurt that the Mythos Eco is made using 95%-recycled materials from the Sportiva cutting-room floor.See the Men's La Sportiva Mythos Eco See the Women's La Sportiva Mythos Eco. Now, this grassroots company makes a full line-up of climbing, mountain biking, and commuter shoes, with a focus on high-quality materials and construction. La Sportiva Otaki Review | Tested by GearLab What we dont: At the end of the day, it's not very performance-oriented. Climbing shoe rubber is an esoteric subject. But for steep sport climbing and bouldering, its quickly become a go-to option for many. Thats why As I pause below a bolt to collect myself and map out the next sequence of moves, everything below me fades away. The Katana Lace, La Sportivas flagship technical/edging/high-end all-around shoe, has been redesigned for 2022 to feature a narrower heel and updated heel pattern made with recycled rubber. And finally, while the Vapor V balances conflicting priorities better than most, it doesnt cross over very well to steep climbing or bouldering, although a nice patch of rubber at the toe makes it a bit more versatile than the Katana. All you need is a pair of shoes and a chalk bag As a beginning climber, the last thing you want to spend your time worrying about is your shoes, or the poor feet youve crammed into them on somebodys bad advice. Basically, youre going to need to scuff up the sole and put in your time breaking in these stiff puppiesdont take them on your 5.12 slab project on day one, unless the route has micro-edges and crystals. Stiffness is another way that shoes differ from each other, but here its tough to make blanket statements. Meanwhile, the synthetic upper maintains a tight fit over time, and the three Velcro straps are thin enough to give ample room for toe rubber. Whether youre a new climber or looking for an inexpensive shoe to thrash in the gym, it doesnt get any better than the La Sportiva Tarantulace. But, in the Katana Lace, you can just stand and stand and stand: The full-length 1.1 mm Laspo Flex midsole locks you in place and keeps your heel elevated so you can power down through your toes to stretch tall. This system consists of two velcro straps and a single hook-and-loop closure. If the Momentum doesnt seem like the shoe for you, its worth checking out Black Diamonds more performance-oriented offerings. The match is a part of the Emperor Cup. All payments will be remitted to who manages the online sales operations of the La Sportiva online store. Thus, to help maintain their structure, many leather shoes also feature synthetic microfiber overlays and/or a liner at the heel or toe (which also boosts comfort and breathability). Further, because of the rise in popularity of indoor comp climbing, climbing shoe companies are now offering even softer versions of their most aggressive shoeslike the La Sportiva Solution Comp and the Butora Acro Compdesigned specifically for indoor climbing. If youre swimming in your shoe, its probably too loose. . The La Sportiva Otaki, is higher volume through the front of the shoe. The upper is the part of the shoe that rests along the top and sides of your foot. Color: Blue/Flame Color: Blue/Flame. Im a big fan of semi-stiff shoes, i.e., 6/7-out-of-10 edging support but with 8/9-out-of-10 sensitivity. Materials. Required Fields Color BLUE/FLAME Size Size Chart Qty The Kataki is more aggressive than the Katana Lace. Our favorites include the La Sportiva Otaki, La Sportiva Testarossa, and Scarpa Boostic. I'd recommend you check outthe comparison chart of climbing shoes at sportiva.com as well. And unlike many sport climbing and bouldering shoes, the Katanas moderate downturn and wide toe box are a great match for wide feet or climbers who arent sold on a more aggressive design. On the other hand, if you're really pushing the grade indoors (particularly on boulders), youll want to be wearing an aggressive, bouldering-specific shoe. We have used the term downturn many times aboveits of the most notable features of a climbing shoe. They offer a comfortable and secure fit, excellent construction and materials, and great performance. It also has a softer midsole and provides a comfortable and secure fit. The heel is slightly downturned and the toe is slightly upturned. In particular, their trad-focused Aspect and aggressive Shadow have become fairly popular throughout their short lifespans. As low as . Log in. The straps and closure are easy to adjust and provide a secure fit. The Eastern side of Ostbahnhof and the Moxy is in a former industrial site with a lot of building activity taking place now (noise!) Similar to the Scarpa Instinct VS and La Sportiva Skwama above, youre likely to see the Five Ten Hiangle on the foot of many a pro boulderer or sport climber. And if your feet are egregiously different sizes, go with Evolv: you can buy the right foot shoe in one size, and the left in another. Its not made for cranking through long overhanging sport climbs, nor for heel- and toe-hooking your way through roofs. The shoes are also incredibly precise, with a pointy toe (it seems much pointier than the old modelperhaps one of the small, small details Dal Pr mentioned) that digs into nubbins and micro-edges, and that we both found super useful in pockets, thin foot jams, and crack-pods. Kataki. They had all the performance attributes I valued, but with improved precision and support for long pitches, like the 40-meter. The more aggressive the downturn, the more power your toes have to pull and perch on small edges, but the less your feet are able to rest in their natural position. The Boostic can be thought of as the Vapor Vs more performance-focused sibling: both are highly versatile, supportive, and comfortable, but the Boostic offers a more dialed construction and fit, which is in large part due to the innovative closure system. What La Sportiva say: Skwama. Weve worn this shoe on everything from vertical dime edges and steep pocketed limestone to hard finger cracks (it was our shoe of choice for free climbing Moonlight Buttress) and have been super impressed with its performance. Sportiva has been doing great things with heels for some time (Solution Comp, Otaki), engineering sticky, stable heelcups without slippage issues. Ultimately, it comes down to your personal preference and your budget. In most climbing shoes, it's made out of leather or a synthetic leather substitute. Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. Its important for the way I climb (short) to feel the holds: I like digging, grabbing, and aggressive, big-toe-powered rockovers. These shoes are an investment that will pay for themselves in durability and versatility. We do wish the shoe had slightly more durable rubber, as beginners with poor footwork will blow through the sticky S-72 outsole in very little time (remember, you can always get a resole). 2 busty, female ninjas with short blades and bladed fans from fighting games stealthily enter the battle, but only one of them can win! Posted by TodOodle Has anyone tried the new La Sportiva Otaki or Skwama? For more tips on getting started in the gym, check out our Indoor Climbing 101 article. Anthony mainly tested in Squamish (on thin cracks/seams, a roof hand crack, brief offwidth, steep slabs, and stem corners), three days of vertical gneiss face climbing, and two days of overhanging quartzite face climbing. That said, if youre a quick learner, a strong athlete, or primarily interested in bouldering, it might be worth starting with a more purpose-built design. The original Velcro Katanas were among my favorites for this niche, and I owned pair after pair until La Sportiva stopped making them. The Tenaya Indalo Is Finally Here. Ultimately, the choice between the Otaki and the Katana comes down to personal preference. And if youre just getting into the sport, check out our list of the best rock climbing shoes for beginners. The one downside hereas with any stiff shoe, reallyis a lack of sensitivity; 4mm of XS Edge rubber doesnt give much opportunity to feel the holds, especially rounded, shallow dimples. While many boulderers prefer ultra-soft shoes like the La Sportiva Solution or even Solution Comp, others prefer stiffer models like the Butora Acro or Scarpa Instinct VS. The Katana Lace has PD 55 whereas the Kataki has PD 75. Trad climbing typically takes place on slabby to just-vertical terrain, and often involves a great deal of jamming in cracks. Related Products. Bouldering The Katana, on the other hand, has a symmetrical shape and fits wider feet better. The Katana Lace falls nicely into this category, with a deep heelcup that is now fully covered in rubber vs. on either side of the Achilles, as with the previous model. The katanas are flat and stiff and loved by trad and crack climbers. See the Men's Scarpa Veloce See the Women's Scarpa Veloce. Furthermore, Velcro can easily come undone during repetitive jamming in cracks. They mostly sat in my gear closet after that. Other than TC Pros, I typically wear Katana Laces on most days. 10 32 Related Topics Climbing Sports 32 comments New Add a Comment mindthechasm 7 yr. ago Late to the party but tossing in my 2 cents. Unparallels Sirius Lace is one of their most popular shoes, rivaling the Testarossa above in terms of precision for vertical and overhanging terrain. Without impacting the overall feel of the shoe, Sportiva attended to the first iterations weaknesses, including the rolling tongue, rand delamination, and durability around the laces (importantly, we needed to size up a half size). KATANA Technical footwork has never been so easy thanks to the La Sportiva Katana. This is not an ideal bouldering or gym shoe. But theyre not only for the elite: these shoes are ideal models for anyone pushing their own personal limits (just make sure you get the right style for your preferred discipline). Intro The Otaki is a recent addition to La Sportiva's lineup that is closely related to their extremely popular Katana Lace. Below we break down the best rock climbing shoes of 2023. 40 EU . Distinguishing features: sensitive, precise, structured. Kataki is more downturned than the Otaki. Quick differences: Kataki has a lace-up closure system whereas the Otaki has a velcro closure system. This versatile rock shoe provides high-level performance across a wide variety of rock conditions, but excels at technical edging and on vertical overhanging terrain. Best uses: Sport, bouldering, gymDownturn: AggressiveUpper: Leather/syntheticWhat we like: A classic shoe for sport climbing and bouldering.What we dont: It doesnt quite measure up in an increasingly competitive field. And food. And if you like the idea of a slipper but want something more aggressive, its worth checking out the Scarpa Instinct S or La Sportiva Mantra.See the Evolv Rave. And unlike your average velcro shoe, the Evolv is relatively stiff, akin to the Instinct VS above (that said, the split sole does offer more flexibility than a design like the Katana). But not everyone is a fan of slippersyou cant customize the fit like you can with a Velcro or lace closure, and some climbers (especially those just getting into crack climbing) will appreciate a bit more padding. The three main closures are laces, Velcro, and slipper, and more and more were seeing Velcro and slippers combined for a best-of-both-worlds closure. $175 might seem like a sizeable investment for newcomers, but its still considerably cheaper than most other options on this list. The midsole is made of a high-quality EVA . Best uses: Sport, bouldering, gymDownturn: AggressiveUpper: SyntheticWhat we like: A powerful shoe for steep climbing.What we dont: Some sport climbers and boulderers will want a softer shoe. For more comfort, we'd suggest the La Sportiva Kataki or the Scarpa Vapor V. Performance Comparison These shoes have kid-friendly colors, but don't be fooled. Black Diamonds Momentum is purpose-built for new climbers looking for a comfortable shoe that doesnt break the bank. Best uses: Sport, trad, gymDownturn: ModerateUpper: LeatherWhat we like: Versatile yet high-performance; available in two versions.What we dont: Expensive; most boulderers will want a softer shoe. Performance climbing shoe, precise, supportive and structured: ideal for climbing on crags, walls and boulders. I would second this. Something tells me, though, that long, narrow feet will fill the shoe much better than my Hobbit paws. And for new climbers venturing outside, this is an incredibly comfortable and durable choice. Designed in part by Chris Sharma, the Shaman is best suited to the kind of climbing Sharma enjoys most: steep, endurance limestone sport routes. Item #896623. But for a shoe that can handle most disciplines while still being comfortable, Scarpas best-selling Vapor V is worth having on your radar.See the Men's Scarpa Vapor V See the Women's Scarpa Vapor V. Best uses: SportDownturn: AggressiveUpper: Leather/syntheticWhat we like: Snug fit and sensitive build results in a complete edging machine.What we dont: Soft build lacks support; thin rubber outsole will wear out more quickly than most. But because you asked (you did, right? Sound familiar? please select a Size Select a size Size chart . Even if you size big for comfort, the Katana Lace will still be stiff enough to offer traction on small face holds. The Katana Lace is a veritable edging machine now available in Men's and Women's styles. Its as Great as Wed Hoped. Known for its sleek looks and premium performance, the La Sportiva Testarossa is essentially the Maserati of climbing kicks. Petzl Connect Adjust Review. The solution is softer (better for most gym climbing), more aggressive, and has the toe patch which is great if you're bouldering a lot. Ad Blocker Detected. What am I forgetting? They usually are sized snug and probably arent comfortable to wear for more than a minute or two. And at just $129, theyre also a solid option for those just starting out (whether outdoors or indoors). For example, the Scarpa Instinct VSRs 2-millimeter sole helps to make it a much softer shoe than its sibling, the Instinct VS (with 3.5mm sole). While the Mythos is great for beginner climbers or those looking for all-day comfort, it is not an incredibly versatile shoe. What about proprietary blends like Trax and Science Friction? Climbing Footwear Otaki - Man - Blue. June 23, 2022 Matt Samet Basics The Katana Lace, La Sportiva's flagship technical/edging/high-end all-around shoe, has been redesigned for 2022 to feature a narrower heel and updated heel pattern made with recycled rubber. For climbers who like to push hard down into little footholds, the Katana Lace nails it, as I found on the very first route I tested them on, a gently overhanging granite 5.12a with big, inset crimps for hands but sharp little potato chips for feet. I was thus curious about the redesignwhat had changed, and would the new Katana Lace hold its form and precision longer? La Sportiva Otaki Vs Katana - Tanzania Safari Tips These shoes are often more comfortable than their more aggressive counterparts, but comfort need not compromise performance. Within this category, the Scarpa Drago has risen to the top thanks to its fantastic fit and build quality, generous rubber patches, and decent edging abilities despite its soft makeup. He climbed this little thing called the Dawn Wall in Yosemite in 2015, and this is the shoe that TC designed for the job. La Sportiva Katana Laces 2022 Climbing Shoes Review. At the time of publishing, stock is very low (which seems to be a recent trend with Five Ten models). But slippers can stretch over time, and when that happens, there's no way to tighten them up. Buy La Sportiva Katana Lace - Men's and other Climbing at Amazon.com. At home both on projects and circuits, the Skwama is definitely a good all-rounder, albeit in a very different way to the Otaki (i.e. In the end, whether you're new to climbing or projecting double-digit V-grades in the gym, check out the Best Uses column of our comparison table above to see which shoes we recommend for indoor climbing. Velcro As low as 170.50. Price: $185 Downturn: Aggressive Upper: Leather Rubber: Vibram XS Edge (women's: Vibram XS Grip 2) What we like: Both versatile and high performance. The midsole is made of a high-quality EVA foam and the outsole is made of Vibram rubber. The Skwama is a soft, sensitive shoe that offers a good balance between comfort and performance. | Powered by WordPress, La Sportiva Mens Otaki Rock Climbing Shoes, La Sportiva Mens Katana Lace Rock Climbing Shoes, Technical face climbing and long multi-pitch routes, Synthetic leather, breathable mesh upper, EVA foam midsole, Vibram rubber outsole, Synthetic leather, breathable mesh upper, EVA foam midsole, XS Grip rubber outsole. But you will eventually get fair-to-middling smearing, which is good enough for all-around and multi-pitch climbing, where a powerful edging platform is typically more important anyway. Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Amazon.com | La Sportiva Katana Lace - Men's | Climbing La Sportiva Mantra, Reviewed. Thus, its important to pay attention to the materials when you size your shoe: No shoe should feel particularly comfortable when you first try it on, but all-leather, unlined shoes shoes should fit especially tight. We were admittedly nervous to see our beloved TC Pro get an overhaul, but the changes are all positive. La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoes Review - Olympus Mountaineering Stiff, downturned, and slightly asymmetric are the ideal ingredients for vertical and overhanging edging IMO, he noted. I also really love Kataki (I actually prefer Kataki for longer crack climbs - esp. See the Unparallel Sirius Lace See the Unparallel Sirius Lace LV. Eyeing Lasportiva Otaki : r/climbing - Reddit Flying in and out of Munich with 9 days on schedule. It all depends on the terrain, the shoe, and the climber. And Black Diamond continues to improve on the quality of the shoe, with the most recent update featuring a softer lining and toe rand, improved midsole for better edging, and retooled fit with more tension from toe to heel. For a more comprehensive list of recommendations, check out our article on the best climbing shoes for beginners.See the Men's La Sportiva Tarantulace See the Women's La Sportiva Tarantulace. [4]M. Sakkari d T. Martincova 7-5,6-3 | Quarterfinal match of J&T Banka Ostrava Open 2021 2021. For more information, see our comparison table and buying advice below. thin cracks!) Right view (Blue/Flame) $209.00. PETZL Adjama 2021 - Climbing Harness Review. The black & yellow model retains the same stiffness as the original Katana. In 2010, La Sportiva came out with the Katana Lace, a stiffened-up Katana with the same sharp toe and mild downturn. The Katana is also made of synthetic leather and a breathable mesh upper. The Scarpa Vapor V is a textbook all-rounder, designed to balance both comfort and performance on a variety of terrain. All in all, Unparallel might not get the same recognition as brands like La Sportiva and Scarpa, but theyre a rising star and it certainly doesnt hurt that their shoes are priced at $20 to $50 less than the competition. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker. The new Katana Lace. The one downside hereas with any stiff shoe, reallyis a lack of sensitivity; 4mm of XS Edge rubber doesnt give much opportunity to feel the holds, especially rounded, shallow dimples. In the same vein, a stiff, flat shoe perfect for slab climbing would be clunky and useless when trying to toe hook on steep terrain. I just started to read some guidebooks, and it seems to have quite a bit for the Bavarian region. To top it off, the Rave is exceptionally comfortable, quick to get on and off, and will conform to your foot like a glove. What we don't: Shape and fit won't work for everyone. Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Like the Testarossa above, it edges like a dream on tiny foot chips, features sticky and sensitive Vibram XS Grip 2 on both the womens and mens offerings, and you get a hefty dose of heel and toe rubber for all sorts of performance on overhanging terrain. Our list features some of the best all-around climbing shoes on the market, and many of the models above are used by professional climbers pushing the limits of the sport. Stats, head-to-head and scores. In short, the climbing shoe competition has become fierce. Points: 12 I can only speak for Katana Lace since I don't own Otaki. And like the Katana Lace, the Otaki is designed to be a high-end, all-around performer. Kawasaki, Japan. It edges just as awesome as the beloved original Solution while including a couple of subtle tweaks to maximize performance for indoor competitions or outdoor testpieces. Climbing Sports 19 comments New Add a Comment Fiercelikefox 5 yr. ago I'm loving my Otakis! . We use affiliate links andmay receive a small commission on purchases. In short, most beginner climbers wont be able to tell the difference between a budget shoe and a high-level model, so its your best bet to opt for the cheaper of the two. La Sportiva Miura VS Review | Switchback Travel My body starts to Back to Our Climbing Shoe Comparison Table. The longer it lasts, the less sticky it will be. All that said, the Scarpa Vapor V isnt right for every climber. In the end, we like to think of a shoe's two models as being Option A and Option B rather than assigning them genders. But, if you are truly micro-edging, is there much rock to feel anyway? wondered Anthony. A shoe designed for overhanging boulders would be painful and less-than-functional in a hand crack. In conclusion, the La Sportiva Otaki and La Sportiva Katana are two excellent rock-climbing shoes. I know the Skwama is delayed until June, but worth an ask. But, if you are truly micro-edging, is there much rock to feel anyway? wondered Anthony. La Sportiva Kataki vs Katana Lace - BoulderingHeights

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